through the lens:
A JOURNEY THROUGH THE SEASONS with APPLES + SPICES
by KIMBERLY DENNISON

through the lens:

APPLES + SPICES

A JOURNEY THROUGH THE SEASONS

We've always admired Kimberly's meticulous approach to recipe development and her ability to seamlessly blend the art of cooking with the art of photography. She is deliberate and passionate in both realms, a quality that shines through in her final dishes. Her recipes are thoughtfully designed and refined. When it comes to documenting her results, Kimberly styles her dishes with a keen eye for detail, sensitivity to light, and an understanding of composition.

We were keen to delve into this process and are excited to witness Kimberly's focus on drawing inspiration from a single ingredient across different seasons. Watching her navigate through trial and error, crafting art every step of the way, fills us with anticipation. We hope her journey of exploration inspires your own.

Please enjoy this quarterly series by Kimberly Dennison of Eggs Flour Milk. In each installment, Kimberly will share her thought process behind the recipe and how she refines it through three different test cooks. Food photography on this page is ©Kimberly Dennison.

FROM KIMBERLY

Have you ever noticed just how versatile apples can be? What if I told you that you can add apples to almost any food category and come away with a delicious recipe you can make at home. Join me on this quarterly series as I discover the versatility of apples and create mouthwatering recipes using Selefina spices and herbs...



spring
CHICKEN + APPLE HAND PIE
recipe development behind the curtains
Making Chicken + Apple
Hand Pies
HOW A SIMPLE SAUSAGE
INSPIRED A HAND PIE

This spring, Kimberly offers a glimpse into the development of a hand pie, complete with numerous photographs of her process, and even provides a behind-the-scenes look at a test cook and photo shoot.

Apple Exploration - Spring 2024
Imagine yourself on your routine grocery shopping trip at your favorite store. You head to the fruit section, where you're greeted with a wide array of apple varieties. Fuji, Honeycrisp, Granny Smith- the options are endless. Which one would you pick for your next recipe?

That was one of the questions I faced when coming up with this quarter's recipe.
I was inspired by making a chicken and apple sausage into a meal. I knew I wanted to create a recipe that had a balanced herbal, slightly smokey, and sweet flavor, all cradled inside a sturdy yet light pastry. But which apple do I choose? Which herbs enhance the flavors and bring everything together like a conductor and symphony?

FIRST RECIPE TEST for CHICKEN AND APPLE HAND PIES:
The aroma and flavor of the first test filling were delicious, but the appearance needed visual appeal.
Using homemade dough for the first round required planning ahead. Using flour was essential to prevent the dough from sticking to the work surface.
Rolling out the homemade pastry until it was 1/8" thick ensured a desirable dough-to-filling ratio.
Firmly press the cutter to guarantee near-perfect circles of dough. A too shallow cut caused the dough to be misshapen when the rounds were separated.
Making a smaller dough round meant the filling had to be sandwiched between two rounds, which threw off the balance of dough and filling.
First Test process.

IMPRESSIONS
Outcome
My first test, in all honesty, was mainly a bust. If we eat with our eyes, then this filling will leave us starving! For the ingredients, I used a full pound (454g) of ground chicken, garlic, and onion. To accomplish the herbal/smokey flavor I was going for, I used whole fennel, whole nigella seed, chipotle chile pepper, salt, and black pepper. I chose a dry white wine to add a bit more complexity. It was all carried by a simple shortcrust typically used in pies.

The appearance of the filling was lackluster and relatively homogenous. It definitely needed more color and, in turn, more substance.

The apple was lost entirely, overpowered by the garlic, onion, and the entire pound of chicken. The whole fennel was unevenly dispersed throughout the filling, producing potent spice pockets.

PROS + CONS
The Good
  • Despite the appearance the filling was delicious, just not for this application.
  • The pastry was sturdy, flakey, and light. A wonderful compliment to the heavy filling.

What to Change
  • The aromatics dominated the filling and need to be replaced.
  • The spices also contributed to covering up the apples and need to be adjusted.
  • Use ground fennel for an even distribution.
  • The apples were overpowered, so a different variety could be an improvement.
  • There was too much filling leftover, so the amount of chicken used would need to decrease.
  • Although the pastry was fantastic, it added too much prep time to the recipe. So, a store-bought pastry is a better option.

TAKE AWAYS
Goals for the Next Test
I'm still going for sweet and slightly smokey, and I want the apples to shine through a bit more. By leaving out the nigella and paprika, changing the fennel from whole to ground, using a milder aromatic, and adding Hungarian paprika and thyme, I aim to enhance the apple instead of covering it up. Also, add in diced carrot and chopped fresh parsley to add more color.



SECOND RECIPE TEST for CHICKEN AND APPLE HAND PIES:
Second test ingredients used to improve the visual appearance of the filling.
Aromatics, spices, and carrots were sauteed first to build a flavor foundation.
The apples were added after the white wine was reduced.
The chicken was added just until warmed through.
A sprinkle of fresh parsley at the end of cooking added more color.
The store-bought pastry dough was easier and faster to work with. A larger cookie cutter ensured the pastry came second to the filling.
Larger dough rounds allowed for more filling compared to the first test.
A light egg wash and vented holes were made before baking the pies.
Behind-the-scenes of the second Chicken and Apple Hand Pie recipe test.

IMPRESSIONS
Outcome
This time, the failure was changing the apple variety to Granny Smith. For this round, I chose a variety of spices closer to yielding the results I was after; ground fennel, thyme, and Hungarian paprika. I chose diced rotisserie chicken instead of raw, ground chicken to reduce cooking time and decrease the filling amount. I used one shallot instead of the garlic and onion to create more harmony in the filling.

After cooking, the apples and other ingredients were well-balanced. However, the Granny Smith apples became sour and overpowered the filling after baking. I'm happy with the change in spices, and using the premade pastry made the overall prep time faster.

PROS + CONS
The Good
  • This blend of spices is precisely what I’d envisioned.
  • Faster assembly by using a premade pastry dough.
  • Less filling by using diced rotisserie chicken breast.
  • The addition of carrots and parsley made the filling more colorful and appetizing.

What to Change
  • Return to a sweeter apple variety.
  • Add chipotle chile powder for more smokiness.

TAKE AWAYS
Goals for the Next Test
I'm still going for sweet and slightly smokey, and I want the apples to shine through a bit more. By leaving out the nigella and paprika, changing the fennel from whole to ground, using a milder aromatic, and adding Hungarian paprika and thyme, I aim to enhance the apple instead of covering it up. Also, add in diced carrot and chopped fresh parsley to add more color.



THIRD/FINAL RECIPE TEST for CHICKEN AND APPLE HAND PIES:
The finalized ingredients are shown for this test.
The larger cookie cutter was the best size for this application.
The sturdier store-bought pastry allowed for the maximum amount of filling.
The pastries did not rise too much, so they can be placed closer together on the baking sheet.
Freshly baked and ready to enjoy!
Final recipe video from start to finish.

IMPRESSIONS
Outcome
Success! There's a sweet and smokey balance that comes from the Envy apple and Hungarian paprika. The fennel here is reminiscent of a chicken and apple sausage, but accompanied by the paprika and thyme, prevents the hand pie from being too on-the-nose. I'm happy to say it has its own flavor profile. I skipped the chipotle in the final test, but adding the spice will land this hand pie firmly in the smokey realm. Smoked paprika would be a great, less spicy alternative. Overall, I'm satisfied with how the recipe turned out, and I can't wait for you to try this as an appetizer, lunch, or dinner.

THE FINAL RECIPE
Summary for Selefina's Recipe Page
Enjoy this unique take on the classic chicken and apple sausage. Tender chicken, sweet apples, and fragrant fennel, thyme, and paprika create a delicious filling encased in a flaky pastry. Enjoy on its own, or pair it with soup or salad. Every bite will be a comforting and satisfying experience.

by Kimberly Dennison